Bar Seddon, Defensa 695, San Telmo
+54 11 4342 3700
From 5pm. Closed Sundays.
This is the new version of Bar Seddon, where live bands play at weekends to a dedicated following of locals. It’s about blues, jazz and the occasional rock act entertaining you while you sip your drink, but also about one of the iconic San Telmo bars that has made a miraculous recovery.
La Peña del Colorado, Güemes 3657
+54 11 4822 1038 www.delcolorado.com.ar
Daily, noon (8pm Sun)-2am (5am Thurs-Sat)
La Peña del Colorado is a charming little place to drink mate (bitter green Argentine tea drunk through a straw, derived from the mate plant), listen to folklore, tango and jazz. Young, aspiring artists are regularly called up to strum, and there is a show of some sorts on every day from 10.30pm until midnight, by which time, it’s hoped, you’ll have moved on from the herbal tea.
Thelonious, Salguero 1884, Palermo
+54 11 4829 1562 www.thelonious.com.ar
9.30pm-4am Tues-Sat. Shows 10.30pm
Palermo is apparently the jazz district of Buenos Aires. That is a bit of an exaggeration, but it was said with Thelonious, named after Thelonious Monk, in mind. Daily jazz sessions fill this bar with sax, drum and bass fans. Dinner at La Bourgogne’s (see EAT) basement on a Friday night also feeds jazz cravings.
La Trastienda, Balcarce 460
+54 11 4342 7650
With a 700 capacity, La Trastienda is big enough to create a head-banging atmosphere while small enough to keep it intimate. Many up-and-coming bands perform here, as well as established artists (there’s a street market for both). Check the website for events at this San Telmo live lounge. Also see Notorious (see SNACK) and look at website for details: www.notorious.com.ar
- La Boca and San Telmo,