Hotel del Casco
San Isidro is the northern suburb of Buenos Aires where Argentina’s high and mighty families continue to breed – usually nothing less than five children per piece – and enjoy the sunshine from beside their pools.
rnDespite an incessant snobbery, probably only matched by the English – many families here, particularly in La Horqueta, insist they are of the finest Irish or English bloodlines – you will enjoy staying in San Isidro. Hotel del Casco is dwarfed by San Isidro’s cathedral, but with 12 rooms – 8 currently being added, along with a new pool – you come here for the 1890s guesthouse experience, away from Buenos Aires’ smog.
rnOriginally owned by the Maiol family, Hotel del Casco has that long-lost ‘Spanish don’ feel to it, with high ceilings, pillars, sculptures, a garden and a peaceful internal patio perfect for an early evening drink.
rnThis is not a hotel for the nocturnal warrior. You come here for a break from Buenos Aires and access to Argentina’s outdoor pursuits. It’s a 20-minute drive from the centre of Buenos Aires and is surrounded by golf courses and the San Isidro Jockey Club – where races like the Carlos Pelegrini are run in December, and where the Jockey Club Polo Open is played at the end of September – and it also has direct access to some of the River Plate’s largest yacht clubs.
rnPolo players are 20 minutes from Pilar, Argentina’s high-goal polo centre. The railway station is a block away, although a taxi will cost around US$40 to the centre of town – where we all know things can go one of two ways.