Ask any Emirati to recommend the best place in Dubai to eat local food and the fairly unhelpful answer – well, unless they’ve taken a particular shine to you – will be ‘my house’. Press further and they may well suggest this unlicensed restaurant, one of only a handful to specialise in the cuisine. Set in the city’s oldest district, it’s a bit of a trial to find – although small, the area’s low-rise, sand coloured buildings are pretty much indistinguishable from each other as they seem to have decided signage would spoil the old Arabia aesthetic – but take a seat in the open-air courtyard or one of the several small rooms that adjoin it and you’ll be transported into a sanitised 1001 Nights fantasy. Heavy, carved wood doors, glowing torches, berry-coloured wall-hangings and more scatter cushions than a mid-sized Ikea all add to the low-lit charm. The mountains of food the set menu send to the table are Himalayan, so unless you’re ravenous, the á la carte – where Iranian, Emirati and Lebanese dishes all jostle for space – is a less belt-loosening option.