Hg2 : The Hedonist

A Hedonist’s guide to…

Istanbul

Tarihi Selim Usta
Another meatball specialist (that sounds much better in Turkish), this elaborately named restaurant is one of the best places in town to experience köfte at their zenith.
Assk Kahve
With a waterfront location and good looking clientele, there's much to love about the Assk Kahve. In daytime, pop in for a coffee and to soak up the general ambiance.
Kahve Dunyasi
If the Modern's cafe doesn't appeal, pop into the charming bustling Kahve Dunyasi for a chocolate fix.
Carnival
Good for breakfast and healthy lunches, refuel here before heading back onto the main thoroughfare to shop for sunglasses, denim and cheap and cheerful clothing.
The Lounge at the Four Seasons
Impeccable tea room at the almost faultless Four Seasons...
Kiva Han
In the surprisingly cafe-empty area surrounding the mysterious Galata Tower, Kiva Han has found itself the perfect niche; the perfect spot for a quiet brunch in the open air.
Kubbeli Saloon Tea Lounge
An exception to the Fawlty Towers-esque feel that pervades the Pera Palace Hotel, the Patisserie and Terrace Bar are a charming option for a cake and slice of high Victorian grandeur.
Mangerie
Home to some of the world's best marzipan, there are many reasons to visit the smart Bosphorus village Bebek. High up that list is this lovely cafe-restaurant.
Cuppa
Healthy juice shop and cafe to leave you glowing...
Beymen Brasserie
THE spot for lunch on Abdi Ipecki Caddesi, the spiritual home of fashionistas and label addicts, Beyman is the perfect watering hole for Manolo-wearing shoppers.
Ca’D’Oro
'Cafe' doesn't do this chic, minimalistic eatery justice. Expect tremendous food, whether it be brunch, lunch, or dinner.
Bej Kahve
One of the cosiest cafés in this increasingly gentrifying neighbourhood...
Simdi
Lovely Illy coffee in an elegant tiled room: what more could anyone ask for in cafe? Simdi has a varied menu and is a great place for breakfast, lunch and all points in between.
Miss Pizza
A little slice of Italy in Istanbul.
Bambi
Only hardcore devotees of the kebab will head here during the daytime, but at night Bambi just could save your life - or at the very least your hangover.
Mado Ice Cream
Carrot, pumpkin or fig? Ice-cream fans probably think they've experience pretty much ever flavour under the sun, but Ben & Jerry's and Haagen Dazs certainly can't rival Mado for range and diversity. =display:none"
Sugar Club Café
The Sugar Club is all about evening fun. Head over there when you're bored of shopping on Istiklal Caddesi to join the (mostly gay) crowd spilling out onto the street for drinks.
Pierre Loti Café
If you've ticked off Sultanahmet's cultural splendours, Nisantasi's chic shopping, Kurucesme's high-octane clubs and Beyoglu's restaurant scene (phew), now's the time to enjoy Pierre Loti cafe.
Markiz Café
Unlike most of our recommendations, this old-school Pera cafe is firmly on the tourist trail. Nonetheless it has a curious charm; tuck into delicious pastries and try to imagine its former glory.=display:none;""
Karaköy Güllüoglu
THE place to go in Istanbul for some proper local baklava...
House Café
Super-slick and ultra-hip chain of cafes filled with immaculately beautiful young things...
Enstitü
Practice cooking for the up-and-coming young Turks of the culinary scene...
Erenler Aile Çay Bahçesi
Nargile smoking isn't for everyone but imagine the scene - the atmospheric courtyard of an old Ottoman seminary, the last pink rays of the setting sun, the call to prayer echoing from the Old City's minarets...yEventWatcherD
Café di Dolce
There comes a time when the only answer to life's questions is cake. If that's the case, during an Istanbul trip head straight to Cafe di Dolce for the ultimate sugar fix.
Armani Café
The spiritual home of chic Istinye the Armani Café is stylish to the core...
Arnavut Köfte
Small, simple and anonymous, Arnavut Köfte serves up uncomplicated köfte with side orders of rice salad and ayran - this is fast food in Istanbul. Located in the Old City, head here after a morning in the Egyptian Bazaar.yEventWat
Alti Café
This lovely cafe-cum-boutique is the perfect place to start a day of shopping around the antique shops of Cihangir and Faik Pasa Yokusu. Try the delicious Turkish breakfast in beautiful garden.
Vefa Bozacisi
From boza (a fermented millet drink unchanged since Turkic pre-history) to sira (a fermented grape juice), a host of traditional pleasures are on offer at the pretty Vefa Bozacisi.
Smyrna
Fashionable and relaxed, Smyrma hits all the right notes. Designed with lounging in mind you might go for breakfast and find yourself still there for sundowners.
Mavra
Galata's hippest hangout comes equipped with free WiFi, funky tunes and delicious cake...
Mesale Cay Bahcesi
Although long on cultural splendour, Sultanamet is short on great places to stop for a snack - places that aren't uber-touristy that is. Despite a prime location next to the Blue Mosque, Mesale retains a local flavour. styl
Nature and Peace
Spiritual home to the doner kebab and lamb köfte, Istanbul has been slow to embrace vegetarianism. Nature and Peace is one of the few places with a meat-free ethos.
Leyla
Part of the Cihangir social scene - think fashionable creative types - the multi-facted Leyla is perfect for a coffee and mid-morning snack or light lunch whilst you're exploring the local boutiques.

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