There is a growing cohort of British revival restaurants in London, but Magdalen is undoubtedly one of the best. The two-storey corner site – just a turnip’s throw from Borough farmers’ market – is done out in that gents’ club mix of dried ox-blood walls, white linen and dark-wood bistro chairs that has become the uniform of born-again Brit eateries. Then again, perhaps Brit isn’t quite the word. The food here is a deliciously, peasanty amalgam of seasonal ideas from English, Italian and south-western French cooking, similar to that championed by nearby gastropub, The Anchor & Hope (see Bars). In practice, that means droolsome meat dishes of, say, braised hare or slow-cooked lamb shoulder, plus potted crab, skate and caper salad, or cuttlefish with chickpeas and gremolata; there’s always a roast or two intended for sharing (like you-know-which pub). It’s pretty much a family outfit, the kitchen run by James Faulks (ex of, surprise, surprise, The Anchor & Hope, as well as Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck), with his father Roger and wife Emma, who does the puddings. The downstairs tables are kept for walk-ins, but it’s best to book – the place is justifiably popular.