When Terence Conran sold his restaurant empire, everyone assumed that that was it – the man who had democratised British design with Habitat and made eating out pleasurable again with his slick restaurants was taking a bow. And why not, given that he was closer to 80 than 70? Then he opened the Boundary, his first private venture since Bibendum in the 1980s. This well-run, multi-purpose space is a personal project between him and his wife Vicki, and represents all that the couple loves: contemporary British art (largely from his private collection), hotel rooms designed after the great modern architects, and the sort of fresh, seasonal British food they grow and eat on their Berkshire estate. The menu is brief, straightforward and executed just-so, like a velvety wild garlic soup or simply, smoked eel. Shellfish, game and charcuterie are all outstanding; the French dishes are rich, heavy treats, and service is personable and impeccable. It’s hard to find a single gripe – except perhaps that the basement room is not ideal for sunny lunches. But watching handsome head chef Henrik Ritzen work the turquoise-tiled kitchen like a very muscular ballet dancer is a lively diversion from the sunshine.