Corrigan’s comes from the heart into the London restaurants scene. The smart yet substantial modern European food with a strong British/Irish bent is worthy of Michelin praise, but Richard Corrigan, a big Irish character often seen chatting and drinking in his dining room after service, isn’t one for pandering to the whims of inspectors. He does what he wants, be that punchy curry flavours or a delicate Cornish crab jelly. The menu is strong on flesh, with, for example, deconstructed steak and kidney pie, or linguine cooked in red wine with pecorino and bone marrow, but he’s also a natural host, so when Stella McCartney comes in – a strict veggie – he’ll do her something special (though for fish, best head to his other institution, Bentley’s Oyster Bar, 11 Swallow Street, Piccadilly, W1; 020 7734 4756). Designer Martin Brudnizki (also responsible for St Pancras Grand, Scott’s and HIX Soho) has preserved the grandeur of what was once the Grosvenor Hotel’s fine-dining room, adding some masculine modernity – a dark, oak-panelled room with a New York steakhouse vibe (Mayfair hedgies love its clubby atmosphere). Corrigan likes his restaurant to be used so it’s equally good for a quick bite at the bar or meandering indulgence, though service can be over-familiar if you’re used to formality – Corrigan’s warmth is evidently infectious.