Hg2 : The Hedonist

HIX Soho

Mark Hix’s passionate menu is hearty, manly, fleshy, juicy, a little bit messy and British, invariably making it one of the best places to eat in London.¬†Hix is also friends with interesting and important people, including every contemporary British artist you’ve ever heard of, several of whom – Damien Hirst, Sarah Lucas, Tim Noble and Sue Webster – have provided Hix with art, including bespoke mobiles which hang over the noisy, cafe-style dining room designed by Martin Brudnizki. Even ex-Blur bassist Alex James provides the cheese. Hix has a devoted following among the in-crowd, who crowd around his restaurants (also Hix Oyster & Chop House, 36 Greenhill’s Rents, EC1; 020 7017 1930, and, tellingly, within Selfridges: HIX Restaurant and Champagne Bar; 020 7499 5400).

It’s a foodie dream – spring leek and nettle soup with mendip snails, cod tongues with hazelnuts – though Hix is not afraid to serve fish and chips with a bottle of Sarson’s. This confidence is madly cool and uniquely relaxing, making for a ‘pick up the bone and eat with your fingers’ good time, not a cathedral-like hush of wonder over the smoothness of a veloute. It’s a fitting (if unwitting) tribute that legendary bon viveur Keith Floyd ate Hix’s cooking for his last supper before suffering a fatal heart attack.

66 Brewer Street,
+44 20 7292 3518
Opening Times
daily, noon-3pm, 5-11pm (bar daily, noon-midnight)
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