Fergus Henderson’s stark, white and eternally modern former smokehouse of a restaurant, opened in 1994, has not only won a Michelin star (in 2009) and become a gastro landmark, but is one of the few places to eat in London that manage inspire an entire movement. Henderson is an advocate of ‘nose-to-tail eating’ – using the bits of animal that most folk leave behind – and his extraordinarily austere style of modern British cooking manages to conjure winning flavours from even the most obscure body parts. If you suddenly feel the urge to eat pig’s spleen, rook chicks or bone marrow salad, this is the place for you (and even if you don’t, there’s less outré fare on offer). Evidently, more and more have learnt to stomach the offal – enough for Henderson to open, in 2003, St John Bread and Wine in Spitalfields (94 Com- mercial Street, E1; 020 7247 8724), a bustling diffusion branch popular with adventurous suits and local creatives (Tracey Emin is a regular). It offers a daily line-up of (marginally) less unconventional dishes, often requiring translation from diligent staff in chefs’ whites. A third has just opened at St John Hotel (see Sleep). And the imitators are countless.