There’s no missing this stunningly modern Chinese restaurant (originally the brainchild of restaurateur Alan Yau – he sold it along with Hakkasan early 2008 but the name has stuck). At night, the opaque glass walls glow blue out of the darkness, drawing in diners like a moth trap. Occupying the lower floors of a Richard Rogers building on the corner of Berwick Street, Yauatcha is high concept in every sense, from Christian Liaigre’s minimalist interior (a sparse white tearoom on the ground floor and atmospheric basement dining room with a star-spangled ceiling and fishtank bar) through to the staff uniforms (very Crouching Tiger.). The food, too, has a concept – namely that you can eat dim sum from morning to night (traditionally they are only served at lunchtime). And what dim sum; compared with nearby Chinatown, the food here is both vibrant and surprising. Upstairs, the tearoom brews 50 varieties of chai, and there are exquisite cakes (European, rather than oriental) laid out like a collection of Lilliputian hats.