Neon-hued bowls of punch, rum-based drinks that come served aflame, and plastic cocktail stirrers shaped like naked women? The ’70s are back, baby, and rarely so well rendered as at Bobby Fitzpatrick in West Hampstead.
This bi-level bar’s dedication to 1970s kitsch is admirable. Wood panelling abounds, carpet is of the shag variety, and the yellow wallpaper is so dizzying it might as well have come straight out of a Kate Chopin short story. Even the toilet is a pitch-perfect rendering of the decade; its wheezing hand-dryer and teeny, salmon-hued sinks may not have ergonomic advantages, but they certainly look the part.
If there’s a weak point in this riot of kitsch, it’s the food. The pizza is best when it really leans into the theme (see: pineapple-laden Hawaiian pizza, or slices topped with house-made lamb shawarma), but chicken nuggets felt a bit uninspired, and could have been pushed further towards the twee.
Nevermind. Here, the experience is what’s key. And if you always wanted to travel back in time to the era of bell-bottoms and fiestaware, this is definitely as close as you’ll ever get.