There has been a fashionable buzz about Giorgio Locatelli’s Michelin-starred new-wave Italian restaurant in London ever since it opened back in 2002 and it’s still up there as one of the capital’s culinary hotspots. Locatelli is Britain’s finest Italian chef, with a knack for taking fabulous ingredients and lifting them to almost poetic heights. His simple brilliance is sometimes lost on those more used to the overt fireworks of French cuisine, but at its best – in the likes of veal shank ravioli or quail risotto – his food is nothing short of genius. Even better, you get to eat in David Collins’ Euro-smart interior, one of the most understatedly luxurious dining rooms in town, with lighting so flattering it would make even Jackie Stallone look good. Waiters are super-informed, happily pointing diners in the direction of new experiences, and it’s not uncommon for Giorgio himself to do a spot of meeting and greeting later in the evening. Getting a table isn’t easy, and early sittings are limited to two hours. But persevere – for food this good, it’s worth it.