Like all of the restaurants situated in London’s looming Shard, if you wish to dine here you must first navigate the inevitable security checks, zealous attentions of the doormen-cum-bouncers, and dizzying speed of the lift as it whisks you up to the 32nd floor. But once those doors open, the theatre of this iconic location instantly becomes enjoyable.
To get to your table, it’s a short walk through a darkened corridor out into the middle of a split open kitchen, through cabinets of hanging meat, towering piles of fresh produce and legions of white-aproned, assiduous chefs. If you’re lucky, you’ll be led from this hive of industry to a window table, but even if you’re demoted to the back of the restaurant, floor-to-ceiling glass ensures everyone gets at least a glimpse of the incredible cityscape spread out below.
The first thing to say about Oblix’s menu is that it pays (unfortunately, not at all literally) to choose something simple that plays to the strengths of the kitchen’s grill-focused food. Steak is the obvious choice here, simply cooked in a Josper oven and served beautifully charred and still glistening. Order the Porterhouse and it will come with a generous serving of wonderfully sweet oxtail and a caveman-sized chunk of bone marrow.
If you’re able to navigate the encyclopaedic wine list unaided, the experience is akin to a kid in a candy shop. But for those who (understandably) need a little help, the knowledgeable sommeliers will be more than happy to guide you in your selection. Luckily, there is a large choice of wines by the glass, as the wider wine list reaches heights that could easily induce vertigo.
Don’t leave without ordering dessert. After such indulgence, who could resist a towering chocolate brownie sundae served with vanilla ice cream and a ‘shard’ of tempered chocolate?