Plum + Spilt Milk
Set on the first floor of the refurbished Kings Cross Great Northern Hotel, Plum + Spilt Milk is not the kind of railway restaurant we’re used to here in the UK. Named for the first class fleet of trains that once operated in and out of Kings Cross Station, the restaurant evokes a bygone glamour of liveried conductors, well-dressed ladies in furs and luggage porters. A far cry from the carnage of Kings Cross below, Plum + Spilt milk offers a welcome voyage into railway wonderland.
Stellar chef Mark Sargeant is in charge of the food, bringing his trademark love of wholesome British ingredients to the sleek wooden tables of this grand dining room. Lit by a network of hanging filament bulbs encased in delicate glass cages and furnished by sweeping leather sofas in an elegant cream, this is the ideal setting for big, bold plates of flavoursome food. Luckily, that’s exactly what you get here: great big slabs of porterhouse steak served up with giant beer battered onion rings; pan-fried lemon sole with seaweed butter; whole native lobster Thermidor. And that’s without delving into the desserts, which, incidentally, feature a delicious iced peanut and salted caramel mousse and a namesake Plum + Spilt Milk pudding. If only all railway restaurants were created equal.