Despite the fact that Hakkasan is not the brainchild of Alan Yau (Wagamama, Busaba Eathai, Yauatcha) it’s one of the restaurants in Madrid favoured by the likes of the Beckhams, Tom Cruise, the Sultan Prince of Brunei and Will Smith, and there’s no danger of it becoming overrun with paparazzi or sycophantic thrill seekers.rn
With characteristic élan, manager and chef de cuisine Choukri Laachiri discretely seats diners in their own undisturbed Zen-like space – a minimalist Luis Gatusi creation making clever use of lighting and dark red screens. Once seated and nibbling on the obligatory entree spring roll Choukri will be happy to share his love of experimental Peruvian, Japanese and Chinese fusion and will guide you around the expertly presented dishes such as scallop soup with tofu and coriander, or octopus with olive oil and raw sole with ají.
While ethnic jazz blends into the soft background chatter, he may suggest something from the ample wine list – a dry moscatel or an aromatic white? – bottles cost up to €800 so keep an eye on what you order. Chopsticks are not split or unwrapped here, instead they are rounded, sculpted wooden objects placed on a solid silver plinth.rn
The menu draws on a latin oriental crossover blending Peru’s traditional Chinese chifa’ and “ceviche” with typical dim-sum