Choosing from the many places to drink in New York can be overwhelming for a newcomer looking for a quick tipple. Sweet simplicity rules the day at Laure Travers’ amber-lit, unfussy Lower East Side watering hole on the precipice of Chinatown. French ex-pat Travers, who lives close by, sensed what the neighbourhood lacked and gave it an inviting mahogany bar, fully stocked, with six taps and a brief, winning selection of wines on hand from France, Spain, and Argentina. Stimulating and spot-on in terms of lighting, staff, and décor, the bar’s mission is simple: Pour the beers people love, craft great cocktails without ego, set a scene that encourages easy conversation, and try not to force the fun. (It comes without straining for it.) If you’re an indie music fan, the soundtrack will suit you just right. May this sweet saloon live long and prosper.