A farm-to-table restaurant is nothing new in today’s culinary landscape; respectable, yes, but groundbreaking? Not often. However, a farm-to-table coffee roaster – and one that claims to the world’s only exclusive one – now that might stop you in your tracks, drawn by the scent of ultra-fresh beans being ground and brewed. Enter: Devoción.
The name has it right. The folks behind Devoción, a coffee roaster and cafe with outposts in Bogotá and Brooklyn, are utterly devoted to what they do. That’s the only explanation for the lengths they go to for the perfect cup of coffee. Beans are hand-picked and harvested by farms in Colombia, ones they’ve developed relationships with over years and endeavoured to pay proper fair trade prices (if not more), before being dry-milled and Fed-Exed to the US. That’s where you can try it.
The Devoción cafe is an airy space that has the feel of someone’s living room, if that person had serious square-footage and a penchant for exposed brick and gleaming leather sofas. Come to think of it, it might be the kitchen cabinet look of the bar. If you take a stroll around the cafe, you’ll spot the roasting room through a massive glass window and notice a two-storey vertical garden (we mentioned it felt airy, right?). There are also plenty of original features, like the steel beams, from the building’s former days as a warehouse.
But for all the high craft that goes into the creation of every cup (there’s an on-site laboratorio where they test all their roasts), the cafe still manages to feel open and welcoming. There are wooden tables scattered around the beaten concrete floor, the odd rug softening underfoot with the foot traffic of New Yorkers coming in for their fix. A devoted clientele? Of course.