Bless its rock ‘n’ roll heart. Terroir embraces its full-on wine-geekness with such crazy, giddy gusto, it really is kinda gabba-gabba-hey punk rock in spirit. And, in fact, the wine list – a spiral-clip notebook filled with sheets of graph paper and multiple-color pages – resembles some high-school kid’s collection of band flyers.
Here, though, the devotion comes in the form of page-long missives extolling upon the kick-ass wine of Lebanon and cult winemakers like Italy’s Bartolo Mascarello and Spain’s Alvar Palero (whose description is an out and out guitar solo that likens his wine-world status to bawdy in-your-face punk revolutionaries the Sex Pistols. But even with all this grapey bravado, Terroir is the kind of place that is so laid back, you’ll wish you lived down the street so you could have a regular spot at the counter.
Great small-plate accompaniments round out the fun, with treats like gooey-centered risotto balls filled with gorgonzola and sliced-to-order salumi.