It’s a good start: a steakhouse on the Upper East Side. So far, so tempting. But Arlington Club is not your average beef palace. In fact, there’s much more to the menu here. The Caesar salad is rich, with just the right amount of garlic. The Lobster Sliders have a piquant hit of lemon and capers from the dressing, with a lingering hint of tarragon. There’s grilled octopus and perfectly buttered sautéed Dover Sole. Rich pastrami short ribs and smoky, gouda-heavy mac and cheese. There’s even a selection of raw dishes, should your tastes veer even further from Arlington Club’s ostensible raison d’être (the tuna tartare and the oysters are a solid choice).

But it has all the decadent trappings of the classic American steakhouse nevertheless. We’re talking crisp white linens and deep, spacious booths for sinking deeper into as each new dish arrives. There are sleek brass accents and warm, low lighting (perfect for making sure you don’t notice the people impatiently waiting to get your table). And a sweeping, vaulted ceiling that adds a further dash of drama to proceedings. As does that fact that Arlington Club is split-level, meaning that wherever you sit, you’re bound to get a good view of the city’s chic carnivores, enjoying their Filet Mignon and 42 oz Porterhouse in effortless, elegant style.

Despite the array of dishes on offer, do spare a thought for the steak here. It’s all prime Meyer Farm beef, well-seasoned and generously portioned. But after that, have at the menu. After all, you’re in the Upper East Side, dining at a ritzy restaurant. So order yourself another martini, and enjoy.