An eddy is, at the dictionary level, an energetic circular swirl of water, a whirlpool. The Eddy – from Chef Jeremy Salamon – is full of energy, judging from the excitement and expertise displayed in the food, and the ever-packed dining room (an elegant, understated space with warm, deep nutty-coloured wood and white walls designed by Michael J. Groth). And you can certainly make a case for the menu being circular, in that you can’t help but loop back around to contemplate what to order, and then to order more.
But that’s the only circularity or repetition you’re bound to notice with the food. The menu here is, as many places are, laudably seasonal, with a kind of New American flair. You’ll find lovage on the menu, weird and wonderful marmalades, farmer’s cheese, and happy meats. Salamon knows how to wield Napa cabbage, and Thumbelina carrots with aplomb. And he can take a simple, familiar dish and lift it to new heights, like the stone fruit gazpacho with goat’s milk and toasted pine nuts. Or the semolina cacio e pepe spätzle with garlic confit and peas. Okay, the last one may not be familiar from the name – but take our word for it, it’s creamy, cheesy, peppery noodle-y perfection. With peas.
But since the menu changes, it’s hard to say what will be on the roster when you visit. Best plan is to give yourself over to The Eddy and opt for the tasting menu, with the wine pairing. Because, why not? It’ll be delicious. And The Eddy is a restaurant stuffed with talent you can trust. Like Head Bartender Brian Elder. That man can craft a cocktail. His Honey Badger (Rittenhouse Rye, Yellow Chartreuse and three kinds of bitters) is not for the faint of heart, neither is the Rhubarbarino (Manoir de Montreuil Calvados, Sfumato Rabarbaro, rhubarb syrup, lemon, egg white and absinthe); they’re for those who appreciate the talent of a master at work. Much like The Eddy itself.