Its many regulars – advertising execs, well-to-do artists, fashion-retail bods – keep this family business abustle. There’s nothing ground-breaking or trendy to report, just good bistro food, with a Landaise/Basquaise slant, so you might find squid with chorizo or magret de canard on the lunch menu. By night, the bistro becomes a restaurant, and pristine white tablecloths are put into service; it’s all very civilised, without straying from its neighbourhood status. The decor is warm-toned, a bit theatrical, and features ceramics arranged on oak shelves, crushed-velvet upholstery for the chairs, and a few volumes by some Jean-Jacques Rousseau character – who shares his nom de famille with the couple who run the restaurant. There is also a sister premises along the street at number 72, called L’Horloge.