Hg2 : The Hedonist

A Hedonist’s guide to…

Rome

Brancaleone
Now the leading centro sociale in Rome, 'Branca', as it is known, has been providing alternative musical entertainment and social happenings since 1990.
Hotel Art
This appropriately named hotel lurks on the lovely Via Margutta, a street that was stuffed to the gills with artists' studios back in the 1600s.
7th Heaven Bar
On a balmy summer evening, there are few sexier places to sup a clandestine cocktail than the roof terrace of the Aleph Hotel.
Max & Co.
Easy on the eyes and easy on the wallet, Max & Co. is worth a visit.
Gilda
Gloriously out of date, this is one of Rome's historic nightclubs, with all the trimmings.
La Taverna degli Amici
This heavenly refuge sits in the corner of an ivy-clad square behind the traffic hub of Piazza Venezia and just begs summertime lunchtime boozing.
Palazzo Barberini
This gargantuan baroque palace was commissioned by the Barberini pope Urban VIII and was originally completed in a zealous five years of labour.
Santa Lucia
Santa Lucia is a prime example of an excellent restaurant spitting-distance from the square, yet a world away from the caricature cartoon artists and tacky tat.
Aspesi
Modern fashion and modern art all in one place.
Mezzo
Mezzo is a slinky, stylish, New York-style eatery with white walls and high ceilings.
Rivendita
Chocolates, coffee, wine and books all have their individual merits but when all four combine in one of the coolest boho spots in the city it makes for sheer indulgence.
Burberry Prorsum
Who doesn't love a bit of Burberry?
Porta Portese
Do not flee this flea market.
Franchi
An emporium of foodie delights and good old-fashion Italian sustenance.
Valentino
When in Rome, do what - albeit, wealthy - Romans do, shop at Valentino.
Rosati
Once the haunt of intellectuals from Pasolini to Italo Calvino, this art nouveau café no longer fizzes with left-wing polemics, but its old-fashioned cocktails and teatime treats still make it a very civilized spot.
MAC
Be dazzled by colour and quality at this US cosmetics store.
Keats-Shelley House
Among the first Brits to tread the city's streets, the Grand Tour Romantic poets Keats and Shelley have informed much of our conception of Italy, and especially
GiNa
This sleek, fashionable eatery behind the claustrophobic Spanish Steps positively screams Chelsea and is frequented by a similar brigade of Pilates-honed and ex
Bici e Baci
Scoot around Rome and see things off the beaten track.
Parco dei Principi
Swimming in 5 star style.
Etro
Town House
The words to define this small and pleasant club in Monti are pop, Victorian, dark, underground and maybe a bit surreal.
Coin
Have a wander around this Italian department store and wonder at the wares within.
Fabrica
The best thing to happen to Prati for quite some time is Fabrica, an ex-factory turned patisserie cum bistro cum art gallery.
La Terrazza dell’Eden
Alexanderplatz
This intimate jazz club has brought big-name international musicians to the stage for twenty years.
Degli Effetti
Spoilt for choice across the three stores of this Roman fashion giant.
Da Enzo al 29
On the other, less touristy side of Trastevere this unaffected, homely trattoria dishes up some of the best and heartiest pasta in Rome.
Tina Sondergaard
Retro fabric but up-to-the-minute designs can be found at the store of Tina the Dressmaker.
Relais Le Clarisse
This pint-sized hotel has just five simple rooms but ticks all the right boxes for comfort and location.
Ombre Rosse
Ombre Rosse will never be perennially cool or stylish, but it is reliable, the atmosphere is warm, the beer is cold and its location is without rival for whiling away a mellow evening in Trastevere.
Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna
Seventy-five relatively crowd-free rooms house Italy's largest collection of home-grown 19th- and 20th-century art that includes Boccioni, Morandi, Fontana and
Maga Morgana
Release and indulge your feminine side through the clothes at Maga Morgana.
L’Ara Pacis
The Ara Pacis or 'altar of peace' was inaugurated in 9 B.C. to celebrate the wealth and security that the emperor Augustus had brought by pacifying Gaul and Spain.
Il Boccone
A relaxed, inexpensive and yummy lunch break in the heart of the city.
Il Goccetto
Under a discreet sign saying nothing more than 'vini e oli' ('oil and wine') lurks an authentic Roman wine bar in a medieval bishop's house amid the crumbling palazzi on the lovely Via dei Banchi Vecchi.
Goa Club
Lost nights in some trance-music bubble on the beaches of the Asian subcontinent? The name of this club says it all.
Inn at the Roman Forum
The Inn looks out over the ruins of Trajan's market yet still feels decidedly off the beaten track.
Arco dei Tolomei
Guesthouse Arco de'Tolomei offers a homely country house-style atmosphere.

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