Pommidoro is like the mothership of San Lorenzo and was one of the restaurants in Rome famously adored by left-wing writer and film-maker Pier Paolo Pasolini. Settle in for a rustic meal by the fireplace in the interior dining room, or take a seat on the veranda in the piazza outside. Meat – especially game – is the speciality here, with an award-winning spaghetti carbonara and other hearty ‘populus romanus‘ fodder. If in doubt do as the old gents do and order a bistecca and swallow it down with a dousing of vino rosso. Visceral, brash and reassuringly authentic.