The museum started life as an electricity plant in 1912, but some bright spark had the idea of housing the overspill of classical sculpture from the Capitoline museums into the later defunct space. The result is remarkable: Roman busts perch on turbines and marble muses sit comfortably next to diesel engines. It fits in perfectly with the local urban chic elite and is sure to swell with visitors once Rem Koolhaus starts his project for regenerating the disused Mercati Generali over the road. For the moment, however, it feels like a fabulously well-kept secret. The café on the third floor also serves a mean brunch.