Hg2 : The Hedonist

A Hedonist’s guide to…

Rome

Farinè la Pizza
Farinè la Pizza is a much-loved pizzeria in Rome’s San Lorenzo neighbourhood that serves authentic pizzas to devoted locals and in-the-know visitors.
Confetteria Moriondo e Gariglio
An historic chocolatier in the centre of Rome, the Confetteria Moriondo e Gariglio sells delicious confections year-round, including Italian specialties.
Barnum Café
By day, Barnum Café is a cosy coffee shop in Rome’s Parione district, and by night it transforms into a bar serving some of the city’s best craft cocktails.
Kook
A bit out of Rome proper, Kook serves up delicious Mediterranean dishes, including pizzas, in its quirky, quasi-industrial space near the town of Olgiata.
Volpetti
Boisterous, bustling and fun, this is the ultimate Italian delicatessen experience in a rather more rustic part of town, so sign language may come in handy here
Cul de Sac
An original classic. This contemporary Roman wine bar, opened in 1968, sees everyone, from footballers, design denizens and enthusiastic locals, pass through its doors.
Antica Enoteca della Croce
This perennially popular bar/restaurant boasts great food and a plethora of wines.
Forno la Renella
Forno La Renella offers a range of savoury delights to help soak up the booze.
00100 Pizza
Rome's latest pizza buzz is all about this hole-in-the-wall kiosk in the popular neighbourhood of Testaccio.
Pizzeria la Montecarlo
Along with Da Baffetto around the corner, and Da Francesco in Piazza del Fico, this rustic pizzeria is the third in the great pizza triumvirate around Piazza Na
Sant’Eustachio
In a country lubricated by daily doses of caffeine, competition for supremacy is fierce, but many would vociferously argue that Sant'Eustachio boasts the best coffee in Rome.
Ciampini
This café lurks in the corner of one of the city's most sumptuous pedestrianized squares off the Via del Corso, opposite what must be Rome's most bling police station.
Il Gelato di San Crispino
Unfortunately there are precious few reasons for visiting the Trevi fountain these days - it's a seething pit of sweaty crowds, rose-peddlers and tacky gift sho
Babington’s Tea Rooms
Perched on the corner of the Spanish Steps, this traditional teahouse has been serving up French toast, ploughman's lunch and other British comfort foods since
Urbana 47
If you like the luscious leather sofa you're lying on, or the antique lamp on your dinner table, or even the table itself, you can actually take them home with you from Urbana 47.
Dobar
The Do has been in the same family for three generations and is a home from home for a colourful collection of extremely long-term regulars.
Rivendita
Chocolates, coffee, wine and books all have their individual merits but when all four combine in one of the coolest boho spots in the city it makes for sheer indulgence.
Rosati
Once the haunt of intellectuals from Pasolini to Italo Calvino, this art nouveau café no longer fizzes with left-wing polemics, but its old-fashioned cocktails and teatime treats still make it a very civilized spot.
Franchi
An emporium of foodie delights and good old-fashion Italian sustenance.
GiNa
This sleek, fashionable eatery behind the claustrophobic Spanish Steps positively screams Chelsea and is frequented by a similar brigade of Pilates-honed and ex
Il Boccone
A relaxed, inexpensive and yummy lunch break in the heart of the city.
Fabrica
The best thing to happen to Prati for quite some time is Fabrica, an ex-factory turned patisserie cum bistro cum art gallery.
Pupina
This bistro, with its white wicker chairs, lovely lighting and touches of blue and red, has a fresh and bright, almost French feeling.
Bocca di Dama
Bocca di Dama is a shop, a tea room and a laboratory in the heart of trendy San Lorenzo, where it is possible to buy sweets, order your own cake or have a relaxed Sunday brunch in shabby-chic surroundings.
Sciam
Kitsch touches and a relaxing vibe with colourful characters, especially from the Ottoman carpet shop next door.
Giolitti
Despite the hordes that populate Rome's most famous gelateria, it's certainly worth queuing behind the sweaty crowds for this unadulterated ice-cream experience
Da Baffetto
Forget everything you know (or thought you knew) about pizza. For many this is the original pizza romana, served on metal dishes and so thin and tasty it melts in the mouth, without any stodgy aftermath.
Libreria del Cinema
One of the few bastions left in a neighbourhood that's being swallowed up by mass tourism, this bookshop/wine bar can be found on Trastevere's coolest and prettiest street.
Forno Boccione
This tiny pastry shop in the heart of the Jewish Ghetto, run by a team of expert old ladies, is perhaps its most famous address, at least judging by the queues
Forno Campo de’ Fiori
Another of Rome's beloved old bakeries.
TAD Café
There are times when you need therapy away from retail therapy.
Obikà
Considered to be the first mozzarella bar in the world, Obika' serves soft, succulent mozzarella di bufala fresh every day from Campania in a variety of incarna
Mimì e Cocò
A friendly neighbourhood vibe permeates this cosy café, making it a welcome spot to stop for snack while vintage shopping on Via del Governo Vecchio.
La Bottega del Caffè
This cafe occupies prime position in the epicentre of the Monti neighbourhood, making it ideal for a quick, simple lunch or much-needed shopping break while you're exploring the district.
Caffè Novecento
After trawling through the boutiques along the Via Governo Vecchio, flop into this dainty café for refreshment.
Caffè Capitolino
As long as you don't mind sharing the view with tourists clutching oversized cameras, then this giant panoramic terrace on the kitsch Vittorio Emanuele monument in Piazza Venezia boasts one of the most best views of Rome.
Caffè delle Arti
Caffé delle Arti makes a gorgeous lunch spot for culture vultures.
Bar à Book
A quirky and happening spot on the edge of the arty San Lorenzo area that comfortably marries the intellectual rigours of books and booze.

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