The Grand Cafe lives up to its name, in part because of the late-19th-century architecture, double-high gilded ceiling, and enormous windows inside this French Bistro, the height of glamorous eating in San Francisco. If you’ve been to La Coupole in Paris, you may get a sense of déjà vu. The whole scene makes you feel as though you should be carrying a parasol and wearing a bustle, or else wearing a top hat and talking up that unstoppable 1920s stock market. Yes, it feels part Victorian gentlemen’s club, part flapper-girl watering hole. If you can walk through the door without ordering a cocktail, you have either tremendous discipline or incredibly poor instincts. The food is classic French bistro.