Bruce Hill made a name for himself at Pizzeria Picco in Larkspur, and his move with now one of the best pizzerias in San Francisco, Zero Zero, into SoMa represents a kind of reverse exodus, or Martian landing. What is not in dispute is that he consistently makes some of the best pizzas in town, lightly topped, even when there are several ingredients. The name is derived from the 00 four used to make the dough, equally light and notoriously difficult to get right. Unlike at most pizza joints, the pastas are also fabulous, homemade with labour-intensive sauces. And the desserts at Zero Zero-organic DIY soft-serve- are a destination by themselves.