The warmth of the Riviera has flooded into Zuppa, one of the most joyful San Francisco Italian restaurants, complete with a sunny yellow wall, wooden accents, and colourful modern art. The servers wear tuxedos and smiles, a nice combination, especially when they set down a generous portion of savoury fare. What a pleasant change from all those small plates! The wood-burning oven turns out herbed focaccia and pizzas with thin, delicious crusts. The rest of the menu covers cured meats, pastas, salads, seafood, steaks, and Italian wines. The bone-in ribeye and the spaghetti with prawns are sure to please. Avoid the bar-it’s too cramped-and ask for a table upstairs if you want to eye-spy the cooks in action.