Hillenberg is a sophisticated restaurant that mixes a little retro, a dash of Art Deco, and plenty of contemporary sensibilities in its decor. Here, you’ll find marble surfaces, chestnut-coloured leather-upholstered seats, and plenty of decorative sparkle, from the gleam of bottles behind the expansive bar to the high-end art on the walls. As restaurateur and chef Karl Ljung says, Hillenberg is ‘a place for grown-ups’.
The cuisine follows suit. Dishes here marry influences from Scandinavia and Europe, with tastes of even further afield added in for good measure. Take the dessert menu, for example. There’s everything from warm cloudberries served with ice cream to pineapple carpaccio with pomegranate, coconut crème and herb sorbet. But it’s the savoury options that steal the show. We’re talking salmon and scallop sashimi served with avocado, nori mayonnaise and yuzu dressing; Fallow deer, roasted lightly until pink, accompanied with the earthy tastes of celeriac, cabbage and kolhrabi, lifted with a blackcurrant jus; Game meatballs (made with high-quality venison from nearby Kiplingeberg) drenched in cream sauce and served with lingonberry jam and a light cucumber salad. You can’t really go wrong.
When it comes to drinks, a glass of French Champagne would be a great choice to go with the oysters to start. And the staff will help pair a bottle of wine with the mains. But a meal at Hillenberg should start with one of their cocktails. There are cheeky concoctions, like the prohibition-era-esque “Bee’s Knees” (made with gin, honey and lemon), which will stimulate the tastebuds. And all manner of classic favourites, including Negronis and Martinis. But if the selection overwhelms, just decide whether you want something sweet, sour, classic or “stiff” and let the menu narrow it down for you.