Schwarzee is an often-overlooked area, but it is home to some of our favourite runs in Zermatt. The Hermetji, Tiefbach and Momatt black pistes – plus a few kilometres of steep tree-skiing – provide some of the very best skiing in Zermatt. These are not ordinary black pistes, and Momatt cannot be opened early in the season as the frozen waterfall in the guts of the gully must first be covered with enough snow to make it possible to ski. Once it is, though, it is a true test of skill and courage. Because much of the skiing is in the trees and is sheltered by the Matterhorn itself, it is often open – even in bad weather. Perfect for powder days. The White Pearl is one of our very favourite runs, with plenty of opportunities to drop off-piste into the trees if so desired. If you know the area very well – or you have a guide – climb up the ridge towards the Matterhorn and then drop off the right. It is a superb run and you can stop for lunch at the most remote mountain restaurant in Zermatt, Stefelalp.