At the top of the old Soviet curiosity, is the Funicular Railway in the former Kirov Park, now designated Martyr’s Alley, Martyr’s Lane or Martyr Hill. Here is the immensely moving, understated row of some 130 marble slabs each inscribed with the name, dates and an etched likeness of one of the 130 or so Baku citizens who lost their lives in the massacre by the Red Army on January 20th 1990. At the end of the alley is an impressive tower that houses an eternal flame, burning in their honour. It is an astonishingly powerful memorial and a must-see in Baku. On the slope below the alley, lie further graves of heroes who perished in their thousands in the Nagorno Karabakh conflict. There are splendid views across the city from atop this hill both in sunny weather and
at night, and a tea shop that serves tea, with an array of sweets, but pretty much nothing else.