This delightfully tatty old brown café has been around for decades, as evidenced by the flaking paint and knackered fixtures. But it’s a real charmer and has a slightly bohemian feel to it. It was originally known as a literary café, and still gets passing literary types and students parked on the canal-side benches outside or bigger tables at the rear, enjoying the half a dozen beers offered on tap. This remains something of a gem fro those keen to escape the more tourist friendly spots at nearby Nieuemarkt, and while the outdoor space there fills up the moment the sun pops out, De Engelbewaarder’s relative isolation means you’re more likely to get a pew. You may even have thirsty sailors park a canal boat next to you. Sundays offer good live jazz from 4pm.