This is one of those spots that Amsterdam does very well. It has a small canal-side terrace beneath an awning, rickety tables and chairs on uneven pavement, dark bare wood inside given a homely glow by amber lighting, a precariously well-stocked bar, and art deco flourishes surrounding more modern furniture. The Italian fresco styling isn’t a groovy retro piece of interior design, but has, by all accounts, been on the walls for many years. The food is typical of such places as well, with Franco-Mediterranean staples given a Dutch twist. And, the service is typically Amsterdam too, with staff swaying from charmingly accommodating to curmudgeonly and sour from one visit to the next. The warmth and homeliness of the place means it can be popular with more sedate diners, but the ample space inside means that groups don’t intrude on oldies or romantics.