Skeptical visitors get a chance to see the Envy chefs at work the moment they walk through the door, thanks to the big open kitchen by the entrance. Behind the busy cooks, a long line of fridges display fabulous Parma hams, brightly coloured vegetables and countless wines. Further back, high tables and chairs give the atmosphere of a deluxe tapas bar, while to the left is a more private dining area. The menu is built up from tiny exquisite dishes that change daily, from sweetbread with langoustines and a foam of sweet corn, to king crab salad with avocado cream and granny smith sorbet. And the staff appreciate that a rude waiter can ruin the best efforts of any kitchen, so service is kind, helpful and correct, without being uptight. There’s one minor disadvantage to the good food and great location, however: during the week, Envy draws a significant crowd of business folk with their clients, something you might want to avoid if you’re looking for a bit more atmosphere.