In a quiet street on the eastern edge of the Red Light District, in an area better known for sloppy chow meins and lost weekenders hunting for the burgundy glow of a friendly window, lies Looks. What appears from the outside like a dainty neighbourhood café is in fact three levels of trendy dining, with a look that wouldn’t appear out of place in either Soho or SoHo. The open kitchen, sleek black tables, booths and dim lighting all add to the effect. Distinctly un-SoHo is the welcome, which is warm and accommodating. Service can be sketchy, and on busy nights it feels as if they should have one or two more staff, but the food is excellent; French inspired, with Dutch ingredients and occasional splashes of Asian flavour on a menu that changes weekly, with oysters the only constant.