The grandest name in Dutch football is based in a shabby corner of the city’s southeast, the notorious Bijlmer area hosting the slick and welcoming 55,000 seater Amsterdam ArenA. Access is easy, the metro spitting you out practically at the turnstiles. This is also where the national side play, and games tend to be a jolly, family friendly explosion of orange, as the Oranje strut their stuff. Games between Ajax and either Feyenoord (Rotterdam) or PSV (Eindhoven) have a bit more tension in the air, and tend to sell out well in advance. Those keen to see a game can buy a hospitality package in advance (firstname.lastname@example.org, 0548 377 666) or try their luck at one of the ticket booths in Leidseplein. The club won’t send tickets without hospitality packages to addresses outside the Netherlands, so Leidseplein is typically the best bet for foreigners that don’t want to spend extra. Otherwise, take the tour (+31 20 311 1333, www.amsterdamarena.nl) or visit the club museum (Arena Boulevard 3, +31 20 311 1 336).