This recently-renamed shopping centre used to be the famed Soviet department store by the name of TsUM. An ex-Soviet city without a TsUM is a sign that it’s moving on, and that’s certainly true of Astana. Although the Left Bank malls have surpassed the Sine Tempore Shopping Centre, this one still retains a certain amount of old-school charm. Seeing as it’s also the only one worth mentioning on the Right Bank – and just opposite the Grand Park Esil Hotel – it’s a useful address to know. Come here to buy furs, particularly during the end-of-season sales at the end of February. Otherwise, it offers a random mixture of local and foreign shops and the usual array of goods including clothes, shoes, home decoration, souvenirs and jewellery. In winter, come and watch the action on the ice-rink that’s set up just outside in the square.