Open since 1992, and thus only months after Azeri independence from the Soviet Union, the iconic Café Mozart is one of the oldest places in town and also pretty much the only one to be open 24 hours. Always busy – ok except perhaps at about 5am on a Tuesday – the Mozart is popular with about as mixed a crowd of mainly locals as you could expect. The pall of cigarette smoke indoors is swiftly blown away by the breeze out on the balmy terrace, where the buzz of phone conversations conveys the probably correct impression that a lot of serious business is done here, as well as, of course, the serious business of resting one’s bones from the power-shopping to be found around Natavan Square. The business lunch buffet is especially popular, but the whole menu is good and reasonably priced and somehow feels much more authentic than many of the trendier, newer establishments that surround it.