Entering the Dondurma Café it is a good idea to keep your eyes up. The white, wrought iron furniture and columns, the plate glass windows giving on to the wonderfully geometric shapes of the cypresses and clipped box bushes of Filarmonia Park beyond have all the charm of a peaceful Italian piazza, to say nothing of the grand backdrop of the Old City and the Louvre-like glass pyramid of the new Old City Metro. Why then, one wonders, did they feel the need for such garish leopard-spotted tiles? Dondurma, meaning simply ‘ice cream’ in Azeri, source their rich and creamy wares from Italy and the ice cream, served on and in the usual range of waffle cones and tubs and so on, is superb. Add to that excellent crêpes and other desserts and wonderful coffee, made from a carefully crafted house blend, and one can easily forgive the odd strangely orange feline spot or two.