Just along the block from the Russian Embassy and on the corner of Bakikhanov and Gardashlar, the long-established Hayat Çay Evi (or Hayat Tea House) is one of the relatively few remaining open-air terraces in town. A great place to sit in the sunshine and enjoy a cuppa (chai), with all attendant sweets, or a pint (piva) or three in a heavily Azeri-accented atmosphere. There is a good menu of home-made Azeri snacks and light bites on offer, though be prepared and come armed with a phrase book, as very little Russian and almost no English is spoken here. The friendly staff will flash their gold teeth at you in a willing smile, however, and respond well to pointing, grinning and, especially, taking their photo, and it does make a very refreshing change from all the usual ex-pat haunts.