Few of the many open air terrace bars, cafés and restaurants in the centre of town survived the great – and arguably misguided – city-wide clean up of the early 2000s. One welcome exception is Schaorma No 1, which to the uninitiated might look like just another local version of a dodgy, international fast food joint. The reality is that, for all of about one single, solitary, lonely even,rnManat, you can get a superior kebab, or schaorma, wrapped in delicious fresh lavash bread with all attendant toppings and, in a town where top tucker usually costs top dollar, this is not something to be sniffed at. Authenticity-seekers can wash this down with an ayran – a popular local yoghurt based drink, not unlike salty lassi – but the local beer is also good and reasonably priced here, if you’re not feeling quite so adventurous.