Descending the steps into Firuza, you could be forgiven for thinking you had entered some kind of Disney dungeon. Ok, the fibreglass rocks and beams do not exactly scream authenticity, but, when taken with the myriad plates, kilims and other more traditional hangings, it all comes together and even works, albeit in a sort of Caucasian chalet meets cellar kind of way. The food, however, is memorable in a far better way. Lürma bogçada is a sort of outsized pasty – stewed meat, apples and various dried fruit are placed in a bread-like pastry shell and baked to shiny perfection. Lip-smackingly good and seriously filling. Other, lighter dishes come off just as well. The menu is long and, to many westerners, all but impenetrable, but the smiling staff will be happy to help you decipher their wares.