The first in the ‘window’ group of restaurants (Mado, Finestra) serves up top-notch Azeri cuisine in a a pleasingly eccentric environment. Immensely popular with a mainly Azeri crowd of suits, civvies and even the odd uniform, there is something almost alpine in feel about the al fresco dining garden and its few private dining rooms, a theme which is repeated in the wood-panelled main dining hall upstairs. The food here is excellent – as at Mado, ostrich features on the menu, but it’s the more traditional fare that is the big draw here. Presentation is beautiful, with dustings of sumaq, scatterings of pomegranate and artfully folded cones of lavash bread, but, as it should be, it’s in the tasting that this pudding is proven. For the uninitiated, try the gurza – a little like an Azeri bite-sized samosa – lip-smackingly good.