Ivanovka Market (56) a strange anachronism if ever there was one, the largely unmarked outlet shop for the only still working Soviet collective farm in the world in the village of Ivanovka (see Beyond Baku, Play) sells astonishingly good produce in an atmosphere that is pure, unreconstructed Soviet Union, except that here the shelves aren’t bare. rn

Patchi (70) chocolates super highend Lebanese chocolates-as-gift store, selling very expensive chocs packed into even more expensive silver and glass objects. Patchi famously teamed up with Harrods a few years back to make the costliest box of chocolates ever.

Ali & Nino Bookstore (91) the second branch of the small Baku book chain has the best selection of English language books in Baku, as well as a free book-swap shelf in the downstairs café

Bata (91) large store of the originally Czech shoe giant with a huge presence across Eastern Europe and on into Central Asia