Set in a sparse, shabby-chic dining room, all whitewashed walls and clean wooden furniture, Lokal is doing exciting things with contemporary German cuisine. The kitchen is spinning out dishes like beef heart with mushrooms, celery, and chicory, sweetbreads with honey mustard, lettuce, rhubarb, and radish, and pigeon stew with lentils and pickled cherries. In short: elegant, light-handed dishes that make use of local ingredients and preparations that magic them into thoroughly modern fare. Though popular with the young and hip local crowds, Lokal is absent of pretension: rather, it’s modelled as a neighbourhood joint that’s also a worthy destination for travellers looking for a taste of 21^st-century Germany.