To really feel Buenos Aires’ pulse, at some point you have to sit beside Libertador avenue and watch the Formula One-aspiring taxi drivers push their Renaults to the limit as they fly downtown-wards. You can do this, in relative safety, at Croque Madame, behind the iron gates of the Museo de Arte Decorativo (Museum of Decorative Arts).
Croque Madame is situated in the gate house of the Museum, which is a 20th-century mansion housing over 4,000 pieces ranging from Roman sculptures to contemporary silver. It is open every day except Monday from 2pm until 7pm.
Croque Madame, however, opens much earlier in the day and caters for dinner, too. Either pop into the Museum during the day and come for lunch, or for a little respite after shopping. Fountain-side Croque Madame sandwiches with chicken are particularly recommended.