This is a beer-slugging part of town, known for the strip of bars down Baez street. Head to Arguibel for a proper dinner before rolling on for a drink at Soul Café or to Kandi, where the food is awful but the crowd beautiful. After La Corte restaurant closed in Las Canitas, this area’s culinary scene was never going to grow as fast as it could have done.
Arguibel seems a little out of place, therefore. The building is a slickly converted warehouse with an art gallery overlooking the ground floor from urban metallic stages. Specialties include pork ribs wrapped in bacon with garlic potato, as well as the classic fillet steak. If Arguibel is empty, you are just around the corner from the ever-packed Campo Bravo, whose meat is supplied from the owner’s abattoir, and opposite Novecento, which has New York, Punta del Este and Miami branches. Arguibel is the quieter choice of the three, but is Las Canitas’ most stylish restaurant by some distance.
In front of Arguibel is Penal Uno, a bar owned by legendary polo players Adolfo Cambiasso, two Heguy brothers and Bartolome Castagnola, all of whom have won the Argentine Open on several occasions. Penal Uno is often closed, but if you’re lucky, is open during November and December during the Open. The ‘cathedral of polo’ – the Campo Argentino de Polo – is two blocks away.