La Brigada recently won a poll for the best parilla (grill restaurant) in the city, which is quite an accolade. We say La Brigada is San Telmo’s finest, closely followed by El Desnivel.
They call chef-owner Hugo Echevarrieta the ‘Maestro Parillero’ (grill master). He’s a little rough around the edges and his staff are terrified of him, partly because he looks like a football hooligan, but mainly because at times he acts like one. But it’s okay. The man is indeed a master craftsman and the service is better for his bluntness.
Away from the kitchen knives, the décor of this duplex meat house incorporates gaucho memorabilia, in keeping with the traditions of the parilla, but most of the walls and entire ceilings are covered in soccer scarves and shirts. This is as bona fide an Argentine restaurant as you will find: juicy steak cooked with the fat on to add flavour, tender short-rib roasts, sirloin and fillet steaks and renowned goat sweetbreads and cow intestines are all on the menu – with gaucho’s milongas (songs and dances) playing in the background and, of course, football.
We think Mr Echevarrieta is a Boca fan, but dared not ask. If in doubt, remind him that Jorge Burruchaga scored the winner for Argentina in the 1986 World Cup win over Germany.