The Dubai outpost of the restaurant that made black cod an A-list fish is destination dining in the most literal sense – first there’s the journey to the centre of the Palm, then to the restaurant itself (you have to walk past the resort’s gob-smacking tank, stuffed with thousands of fish. Oh, and a whale shark that one day will be as big as a double-decker). It’s an odd way to whet your appetite for an evening of piscine indulgence, but worth it for the sort of sushi that’s made chef Nobu Matsuhisa almost as famous as the chain’s co-owner, Robert De Niro. The dark, cave-like dining space is essentially a big square room, which affords a view both of the sushi chefs at the long counter and also the slightly odd mix of clientele – which range from baseball-capped Americans staying in the 2,000-room mega hotel to the occasional banker and be-frocked It girl. The food – all of the star dishes have made it onto the lengthy menu – and service is worth the trip and two-month wait for a table.