The closest you can get, in restaurant terms, to the world of the late Ottoman elites is Feriye, set in a beautifully-restored and particularly grand old police station within palatial grounds that once belonged to the Çiraan Palace. Set up by celebrity chef Vedat Basaran, Feriye, like Asitane and nearby Tura, serves up saray (palace) cuisine, playing detective to unearth old Ottoman and even Byzantine techniques often applied with a contemporary twist. In the restaurant’s own words, the menu serves an ‘up-to-date synthesis of traditional Turkish and Ottoman cuisine’. The seasonal menu is dominated by whatever fresh ingredients are available, while signature dishes include air-dried beef wrapped in vine leaves and homemade manti (ravioli) stuffed with pine nuts. For the best in succulent meat, try the milk-fed lamb served on charcoal-grilled aubergine purée with yoghurt and perde pilav with raisins. The waterside summer dining terrace on the banks of the Bosphorus is divine.